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Hair Color
Relativity
Looking for a seamless blend between cut and color, here is the "Relativity" technique, a two-step color design to inject dimension into a layered shape. The application technique is elegant and easy, allowing the colorist to use a minimum of formulas, while the cutting methods emphasize soft development of layered asymmetry.
"Hair color and shape do not live separately," says Kathy, the stylist. "The two go hand-in-hand." Here, she create a two-step color design in a classic pattern, offering the perfect finish for almost any client. "This is a simple way to get dimensional color," says Kathy. "I lift the base and then add power lights." What makes this pattern unique is slightly asymmetrical color. Foils are swept from the crown to the longer side and then across the front. A triangular section of foils is placed in the fringe to make a powerful statement at the face. To keep things less complicated, Kathy lifts just to the desired shade and then stops. "There's no need for any additional shades or toners if you work at a decent pace and watch the color as it processes," she says. The asymmetrical color complements an asymmetrical cut. Kathy uses point cutting to reduce length. The front and back are connected with vertical layering, and the shape is finished with both slicing and point cutting.
Products you'll need:
- Color: Permanent gold color, here, equal parts Clairol Complements 10N and 8G mixed with equal parts 30- and 10-volume developers; powder bleach, BW2 with 20-volume developer
- Shampoo and Conditioner: Clairol Color Protec
Tools you'll need:
- Shears: Here, Yakasa
- Blow dryer: TGR Tempo
- Brushes: Denman
- Begin the cut in the lower nape. Hold the hair at a low angle and point cut into the ends to create a stationary guide. Work upward to the crown, directing all lengths to the guide. Lengths behind the ears are brought back to the line to be cut.
- Section out the fringe. Hold the hair at low elevation with comb and point cut into the ends to the desired length.
- To cut the lighter side, begin by connecting the side to the horizontal fringe. Direct lengths forward, hold at a low angle and cut diagonally. Blend diagonally into the back by directing 1/2 inch sections forward and point cutting into the ends to the established length guide.
- On the heavier side, direct hair toward the length guide at the back and cut to blend. To create long layers and additional texture, take 1-inch vertical sections out from the head and point cut into the ends, working around the head, from temple to temple.
- Begin the color by dividing the head into quadrants. Working 1/4 inch off the scalp, outline the section with a softened gold tint mixed with an equal part of 30-volume developer to break the base and import gold to the neutral Level-7 hair. Then brush the mixture onto lengths.
- Return to the scalp area and apply the same shade, now mixed with 10-volume developer. Process at room temperature for 30 minutes, then shampoo, condition and dry.
- Begin the highlights on the left side of the crown. Working off the scalp, paint thin slices with powder bleach mixed with 20-volume developer. Use a loose bricklay pattern to create a more natural flow of color.
- Using this technique, place foils to sweep from the crown to the longer side of the cut.
- Place thin slices in back-to-back foils in a triangular section at the fringe. Process for 15 minutes at room temperature, then shampoo and condition.
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