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Hair Color

Color Accent

Color Accent

Another inseparable form-and-hue design is "Color Accent".

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This commercial shape features and undercut tier accented with deep, rich color and a layered surface brightened with vibrant shades. The design signature: an asymmetrical accent fringe with dramatically contrasting color.

Here, John and Lisa share a design from their "Emotions" video collection, a salon-sellable cut and color that incorporate a strong design accent - a deeply shaded, short fringe. "This cut and color are about freeing up the hair stylist in terms of creativity," says Lisa. "It provides inspiration, not dictation."

John designs the color to accent the cut. He uses deep, rich shades on the undercut areas and lighter, more vibrant shades as an overlay, surface color. Lisa executes the cut, which she says can be used as blueprint for several other cuts. "You can keep length, or cut it shorter depending upon your client's mood," she says. "It creates a self-developing perimeter, and you can change it by making it much more asymmetric than we show here."

Products you'll need:

  • Color: Here, rish auburn brown color, 2-oz Farouk System Bioglitz 5RR and 2-oz Color Energy 10-volume developer. Dark auburn blonde surface color, 2-oz Bioglitz 7RR and 2-oz 20-volume Color Energy. Golden blonde lightener, 2 scoops of Activator 2 and half a scoop of Yellow Brightener, all from Farouk Systems Color Visions Lightening System.
  • Equalizer: Here, Farouk Systems Sunglitz Pre-Treat Porosity Equalizer.
  • Cleansing and conditioning: Here, Farouk Systems Biosilk Hydrating shampoo, conditioner and Sealer Plus color sealer.
  • Styling/finishing products: Here, Farouk System Bad Azz Shock Therapy Shine Serum, Smooth Talker Straightening Fluid, Helmet Head Concrete Spray, Stuff Styling Aid and Big Hair Bodifying Tonic.

Tools you'll need:

  • Thermal tools: Here, Farouk Systems Chi blow dryer and ceramic iron.
  • Shears: Farouk System Top Blade.

  1. Mist the hair with a light leave-in conditioner, then part to divide the interior from exterior lengths. Create a slightly off-center diamond-shaped section at the top front. Divide the remainder of the top into triangular sections and part out a color accent section, here at the front on the left side.
  2. Brush the first color formula, a rich auburn permanent Level-5 brown, onto all lengths below the crest.
  3. Apply this same color formula to the accent section, from roots to ends.
  4. Release one of the triangular sections. Smudge a lighter surface color, here a Level-7 dark auburn blonde, into the darker bottom color. This will break up the hard line. Smudge only where the bottom section meets the top section.

  5. Next, apply the surface color roots to ends throughout this entire section, subdividing as needed to fully saturate the hair. Repeat the smudging and coloring on the other two back triangular sections.
  6. Release the top front section, and shade about 1/2 inch at the scalp with the same dark auburn-blonde color. Again, subdivide as needed, working on the base areas in each section only.
  7. Apply a golden blonde lightener directly over the dark auburn-blonde color within the triangular sections. Apply the lightener onto three woven subsections, painting it on from 1/4 inch off the scalp out to the ends. Repeat within the other triangular sections.
  8. Mist the top lightly with water, then apply a small amount of color equalizer. Place foil underneath the section to protect the previously colored hair.

  9. Apply the golden-blonde lightener throughout the section, smudging about 1/2 inch out from the scalp to the ends. Put a plastic cap over the hair and process under a warm dryer for 10 minutes. Cool at room temperature for another 10 to 15 minutes, shampoo and condition.
  10. Mix a shine product and a lightweight gel as a cutting lotion "cocktail." Release the accent section and part to subdivide the interior from exterior.
  11. Starting at the center back, use "A-V" sectioning: One section will have and "A" shape, and the next will have a "V" shape. The two shapes alternate with each subsequent section.
  12. Holding the first "A" straight out from the head, undercut from the bottom to the top.Cut the next "V" section, in the same fashion, using the "A" section as a guide. Work in this manner through to the face-framing section.

  13. Overdirect the entire accent section toward the outer corner of the eyebrow, using a comb to line up the hair. Cut vertically into the section to create the accent fringe.
  14. Moving into the top, drop out a section to determine the length. This will be undercut so that the top lengths will be longer than the bottom - here, by 1/2 inch.
  15. Once the length is determined, hold the entire section up, and point cut into the top. Here, 2 inches are removed, but the amount can vary depending upon the desired look. Drop the section and refine the perimeter as needed.
  16. Part out a section from the apex to the outer corner of the fringe and direct forward at low elevation. Slide cut from the shorter side of the accent fringe out to the longer lengths. Here, the low elevation will create a more subtle effect to keep the fringe long and heavy.

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